The NoMad restaurant — a light-filled, three-story high, glass atrium — is surely one of London’s most beautiful dining rooms right now. As the evenings get longer, and the sunshine streams in, you can’t help but feel a little bit like the cat that got the cream, or the diner that got THE reservation.
And with Michael Yates recently joining the kitchen — having previously worked at restaurants around the world — now felt like a good time to check it out.
Situated in a stunning Grade II-listed building in the heart of Covent Garden — in what was once Bow Street Magistrates Court, as well as a favourite haunt of Oscar Wilde — NoMad is undeniably a looker. The chic space is filled with plants trailing from the ceiling, marble tables, and green velvet sofa seating. These are dotted with plump cushions that will leave you so perfectly cosy, you might consider taking a room in the hotel. Even the loos are so inviting you’ll find yourself taking that little bit longer to return to your date.
Looks-wise it feels like a special occasion spot, which is reflected in the pricing, as dishes do have a tendency to feel quite expensive. That said, our starters were huge and perhaps in hindsight we’d have been better off sharing these, than ordering our own. It’s something to bear in mind (or perhaps go with a group so you can sample more dishes) because there’s lots worth trying.
We’d suggest kicking off with the English burrata. The vibrant green dish is the epitome of warm weather eating, with spring peas, mint and lemon, topped with a crisp parmesan palmier. Elsewhere a piece of short rib is beautifully presented alongside a balancing act of artfully placed radishes.
For our mains we leaned into seasonal ingredients, opting for the wild garlic rigatoni, made all the more interesting for the use of Gubbeen, a ripe farmhouse cheese which worked well against the hazelnuts. But at £36, it again felt steep (although a smaller, cheaper portion is also available). That might have made more sense, so we’d have had more room for sides — a sharing style potato rosti with ogleshield and black truffle, or the cacio e pepe sugar snap peas. In fact it was the Devon lamb neck that we felt represented the best value for money, served alongside pickled mint and anchovy aioli.
Alas, there was no room for dessert on this occasion, and our evening drew to a close well after the sun had set, leaving the atrium in a moody, romantic darkness.
We’ll be keeping The NoMad up our sleeve for next time a seriously special date night is needed.
