Soho institution Quo Vadis is back, baby. Ok, so it never really went away, but operation glow-up involved doubling the capacity (meaning you might have a hope in hell of getting a reservation).
The grander, more spacious dining room feels befitting of Jeremy Lee and co’s cooking, who has taken a stellar, celebratory menu and injected fresh life into it.
The cocktails are as punchy as ever (the salty, mouth-puckeringly tart margarita never fails to perk us up), and classic dishes such as the smoked eel sandwich are present and accounted for. We’d also recommend kicking off with a few snacks “for the table”, such as baked salsify covered in parmesan, or fish cakes that disappear in two glorious mouthfuls.
With so many hits on the menu, we’re all for sharing mains too. Pheasant pie gets our vote, as does the meaty slab of hake, paired with mussels, clams & sea veg in a light, velvety stock.
We also have a lot of love for the Quo Vadis dessert menu which offers up such simple delights as “just cheese please” and “coffee, however you like it”. For those with loftier tastes, old school “ile flotant” — a generous quenelle of meringue floating in pitch-perfect vanilla custard, topped with a sprinkling of praline — should round your evening off nicely.
Oh, and ours is black, no sugar. Ta.
