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KOYN, Mayfair

KOYN restaurant review

Samyukta Nair is a name you need to know. Having already launched Michelin-starred Indian restaurant Jamavar, as well as Bombay Bustle and Chinese restaurant MiMi Mei Fair, KOYN is her latest baby. 

Let’s start by saying, KOYN is very Mayfair. No bad thing, but you might want to change out of those scuffed kicks before entering. Laid over two-storeys, the gorgeous space is meant to represent Mount Fuji. You’ll find the theatrical open robata grill in the dark, moody basement (the heart of the volcano); with lighter, fresher sushi being prepared on the ground floor. Had our waiter not pointed this out, we may have missed the concept, because this place is far from gimmicky. The decor is beautifully executed — think zen garden vibes — and the staff are polished but warm, greeting us with “Irasshaimase!” in unison — a formal way of saying, “welcome to my restaurant”. 

Wherever you find yourself sitting, the same menu is available to all, featuring a selection of classics, and more inventive dishes from Executive Chef Rhys Cattermoul (ex-Nobu). 

The cocktail list is strong and we’d highly recommend starting with the Japanese Penicillin which is served alongside honey, so you can sweeten to taste. A sweet, peppery smokey delight, best enjoyed with spicy edamame.  

Staff were only too happy to recommend suggestions, so we let them lead the way, enjoying the likes of yellowtail with truffle soy, braised pork belly with gotchujang, and tuna with yuzu chilli and white sesame. The latter is from the “senbei” or “rice cracker” section, which in reality is more “homemade taco”, rather than anything that resembles my daughter’s Organix.

If you normally order the black cod, get the Chilean seabass instead. It satisfies the same craving, yet is a far more sophisticated affair, with a vibrant salsa verde. Glorious alongside the KOYN salad — probably one of the best salads we’ve ever eaten — a fresh, zingy creation that we kept coming back to all night. And if you’re going all out, it would be a shame to miss the A5 wagyu, presented on a sizzling hot stone, in tender, decadent strips. 

Pricey, certainly, but if you’re looking for a special occasion blow-out, you won’t regret spending your cash here.


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